Once upon a time, a child from a remote city of Layyah in Pakistan was afraid of the dark. Waking up in the middle of the night and not being able to spot a speck of light in the room terrified him. He couldn’t go back to sleep. The darkness choked him. He felt disoriented … Read more
Dear Mom, it’s been exactly nine years since you left. When I was little, you would bathe me, dress me in blue Shalwar Kameez, and add Kajal in my eyes as we sat in the winter sun on our roof where I always fell asleep in your lap. How before every bite of roti you … Read more
Dear Mexico, When the immigration officer at the border gave me a six-month entry, I cycled like a mad man screaming with joy. The Mayan pyramids of Yucatan peeped out of forest canopy just to see who had arrived. I can write about your landscape, from rugged mountains to canyons, from lush jungles to deserts, … Read more
A Letter to Pakistan on Independence Day 14 August Dear Pakistan, My story begins with you even before I was born. Mum always used to tell me that when she was pregnant, there was one Pakistani patriotic song “Har Ghari Tayyar Kamran Hain Hum” that would often play on PTV. While listening to it, she … Read more
Today is July 21. I turn 43! Sitting by the Minor Canal in Layyah as I dip my feet in the water, the arrow of time suddenly stops and then starts flying in the reverse direction. I am only six years old and spinning a tricycle along this canal as if trying to break the … Read more
In Layyah, the doorbell rings at our house. Outside, a child clings to his mother’s finger and stares at me with big eyes. His mom Shamim Akhtar is here with her daughter and a little son. My sister had given free ration and money to this family a while ago and also told me about … Read more
If you draw a horizontal line on the world map at the 30.963280° latitude, somewhere this line is going to cross my hometown Layyah in Pakistan. During my bicycle trip from Argentina to Alaska bicycle tour, I crossed this latitude near San Felipe in Baja California, Mexico in January 2018 and thus, was in perfect … Read more
To read in English, please scroll down! آج پھر چھ جون ہے، تمہیں گزرے پورے بیس سال ہوگئے ہیں آج اگر تم ہوتے تو تمہاری عمر 78 سال ہونی تھی۔ آخری خط تمہیں تین سال پہلے لکھا تھا، پچھلے خطوط کا بھی جواب نہیں دیا تم نے ، کیوں؟ حالانکہ تمہیں تو خط لکھنے کا … Read more
(اُردو میں پڑھنے کیلئے نیچے سکرول کریں) There was a time when a tyre puncture was 5 Rupees and air refill used to cost 1 Rupee. I was in school. During the school holidays, dad used to bring me to our shop “Quetta Tyres” where I would work together with other employees—washing old tyres in … Read more
If you draw a horizontal line on the world map at the 30.963280° latitude, somewhere this line is going to cross Layyah city in Pakistan. About 9 km south of San Felipe in Baja California, I push my bicycle through the desert. After half an hour of walking in the soft sand, I take a … Read more
To read in Urdu, scroll down. (اُردو میں پڑھنے کیلئیے نیچے سکرول کریں) Last night, I was about to sleep when I received a call from home with a tragic news that aunt Gul had died. She had fever and flu for the past few days, but her condition wasn’t so bad. When she last … Read more
The tarmac on the Panamerican Highway melted under my tyres in the tropical heat. I struggled to keep the bicycle on the wide shoulder of the road which was dotted by dead frogs who were baked dry in the intense sun and had been flattened out by the traffic. These paper thin frogs flew in … Read more
The year is 1996. It is July. It is hot. I am cycling from Layyah to Lahore. I have cycled 70 kilometres since the afternoon and have crossed Choubara. The darkness has fallen in the Thal desert. The same desert where the love story of Sassi and Punnun emerges from. I have my eyes peeled … Read more
Where I sit if you look up for this location (38°28’35″N, 70°57’56″E) on a map and draw a vertical line through it, in the south the line will cross a city named Layyah in Pakistan. Layyah is my home town, where I was born and spent two-third of my life. This is where my brothers … Read more
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