Yazghil Sar Winter Expedition 2021

As days become shorter and nights grow darker, we dial up our heaters and chew pistachios and walnuts while sitting under blankets in our cosy homes. Meanwhile, a few brave ones dare to venture deep into the icy mountains that give shivers to the sun. They are on a mission to do something that no … Read more

Daulat Amin — First Teacher From Shimshal

“My name is Daulat Amin. Perhaps God wanted me to become the guardian (Amin) of a treasure (Daulat) and what bigger treasure than the knowledge (Ilm)?” Born in 1945, Daulat Amin was the first matriculate teacher from Shimshal. When Daulat was young, his family suffered an economic shock after their 300 goats and sheep, and … Read more

Fazal Ali — The K2 King

“It is unfortunate that mountaineering has no value in our country. Everywhere I go, I have to tell who I am and narrate my achievements. In other countries, mountaineers are considered as heroes and don’t have to introduce themselves.” Fazal Ali is a veteran high altitude porter (HAP) from Shimshal, Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan. He has … Read more

Shaheen Baig—The Rescuer

“In 2004, there were so many climbers on K2 that I felt I was in Raja Bazar, Rawalpindi. Two years later, we were only two people on 8,000m tall Broad Peak in winter. At that time, I learnt that the most difficult part of mountaineering is descending without a rope. That experience still helps me … Read more

Karim The Dream

They call it the Savage Mountain. It is the second-highest peak on Earth. For every four people who summited K2 (8,611m), one died on the mountain. On 1st August 2008, twenty-five climbers left Camp IV to attempt the K2 summit, but eleven never returned. It was a perfect day for climbing, one in a million, … Read more

The Father, The Son, And The K2

They call it the Savage Mountain. It is the second-highest peak on Earth. For every four people who summited K2 (8,611m), one died on the mountain. On 1st August 2008, twenty-five climbers left the Camp IV to attempt the K2 summit, but eleven never returned. It was a perfect day for climbing, one in a … Read more

Samana—Future High Altitude Lead Climber

“I was only five when dad passed away. Mom worked hard to raise us. My elder sister and I helped her with everything, at home, in farming the land and raising animals. Once mom had to go to the Yazghil Pasture at over 3,500 meters. There was no one to accompany her, so I went … Read more

Abdul Joshi—Tougher The Mountain, The Better The Story!

“When I took the first step on Melvin Jones Peak, all I was thinking was we have to bring him back. But we cannot challenge a mountain. For the next two days, we followed footprints in the snow. Then we saw a black spot from a distance. There it was, what we had come for, … Read more

Happy International Mountain Day

Today is the International Mountain Day! Mountains are a symbol of adventure and dreams, a quintessence of mother nature, and a portal to divine inspiration and spiritual elevation. There are many reasons why humans love mountains. They are part of our evolution. Our ancestors used to climb mountains to survey new lands for migration, locate … Read more

Passu Cones

They are Passu Cones, the 6000-m tall pointy peaks in Gilgit Baltistan of Pakistan. When I look at them, over and over again, every time, I see something different in them. Passu Cones are a fence of thorns growing from earth to protect the jewels of the north. They are the shattered pieces of glass … Read more

Music Video: Gul Banafsha

Gul Banafsha is a traditional song from the Northern Areas of Pakistan which symbolizes the beauty of the beloved girl to a unique flower called “Banafsha”. The word “Gul” means flower. During my recent visit to Shimshal, I met Sifat Shimshalee who played this song to us on Rubab at Sifat Guest House. The minute … Read more

Imtiyaz And The Secret Of Shimshal

“Imtiyaz was one class ahead of me in school. We liked each other a lot. We were distant relatives, so we convinced our families and got married in 1998. We were so happy together. He was such a soft-spoken man. Everyone in Shimshal loved him. He always helped others.” Imtiyaz’s wife, Zeenat, couldn’t speak further. … Read more

The Story Of Shakila

It is the story of two 8,000s and Shakila. In 2019, seven mountaineers from Italian-Pak expedition were pushing for the summit of 5,800m Melvin Jones Peak in Pakistan when an avalanche swept them down for 600m. Three members of the team were from Shimshal. One of them lost his life on the spot. His name … Read more

Nadeema

“We all thought it was our day. It was beautiful and sunny out there. We were only 500 metres from the summit, seven climbers strung together by ropes on a steep slope. The last thing I remember from the climb is the sight of our lead climber lifting his ice axe and sinking it into … Read more